iceland – Yun Silver Lining

After our unforgettable stopover in Iceland en route to Helsinki, we returned for a longer visit—two nights and two full days—before heading back to the U.S. This time, we planned to dive deeper into Iceland’s South Coast and explore more of Reykjavík. But as with any trip, there were surprises—some joyful, some frustrating, and one unexpectedly sad.

✈️ July Return: Early Morning Arrival + Rough Weather Welcome

We flew back to Reykjavík from Helsinki on a Finnair flight departing at 7:10 AM, arriving at Keflavík Airport at 8:00 AM. Iceland greeted us with pouring rain, and we hurried through the airport to pick up our rental car from Thrifty.

⚠️ A Lesson in Rain and Rentals

In hindsight, we should have taken a video of the car from all angles when we picked it up—but the downpour made it nearly impossible. When we returned the vehicle two days later, a small dent was discovered, which we hadn’t noticed during the trip. It was an upsetting moment.

My husband, frustrated by the situation (and wet, again), reacted a bit harshly. The staff member was understandably upset. We apologized sincerely, explaining that our frustration wasn’t personal. We signed the paperwork and chalked it up to bad luck.

Fortunately, we were never charged—a small relief after a tense experience. Moral of the story: always document your rental car’s condition, even in the rain.

⛪ Reykjavík Day: From Shark Shots to Street Art

We drove straight from the airport to the city and headed first to Hallgrímskirkja, Reykjavík’s iconic hilltop church. The view from outside was striking even in gloomy weather, and it’s a great central point to start any Reykjavík walk.

🍽️ Café Loki: A True Icelandic Taste Test

For lunch, we visited Café Loki, directly across from the church. We decided to be adventurous and ordered the “Braveheart” tasting menu, which included:

Fermented shark (hákarl): Surprisingly not as bad as expected!
Brennivín (Icelandic schnapps): Strong, sharp, and meant to “kill” the shark aftertaste.
Sweet rye bread with butter: Honestly, our favorite part of the dish—it’s comforting and balances the rest.

It was a fun and authentic experience that we’ll never forget.

🌈 Rainbow Street & Perlan Museum

After lunch, we strolled down Rainbow Street (Skólavörðustígur), full of colorful shops, murals, and cozy vibes, even in the drizzle. Later, we headed to Perlan Museum, where the indoor ice cave and 360° observation deck gave us both fun and stunning views—indoors, where it was warm!

🏡 Hafnarfjörður Stay – A Cozy Home and Sad News

We stayed in a peaceful, stylish Airbnb in Hafnarfjörður, just outside Reykjavík. The listing mentioned a cat who freely came and went. As cat lovers, my husband and son were especially excited.

But that evening, before we had a chance to meet the cat, our host messaged to say:

“Our cat went outside earlier and was hit by a car. I’m sorry you won’t get to meet her.”

Even though we hadn’t seen her, the loss hit us. It was a reminder of how even short moments while traveling can stir real emotion.

🚗 South Coast Road Trip: Puffins, Cliffs & Waterfalls

The next day, we took a full-day drive along Iceland’s spectacular South Coast up to Vik, then we turn around and drive back to Hafnarfjörður. We intentionally chose the sequence of scenic stops based on their location on the right side of the road when driving.

🐧 Dyrhólaey Lighthouse

In July, puffins return here. Best for puffin spotting and coastal views.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

With towering basalt columns and roaring waves. Be cautious—sneaker waves here can be dangerous.

Vík

A cozy town to grab a meal or coffee before heading back west.

Sólheimajökull

A striking glacier tongue where we took a short walk to admire its rugged ice, volcanic ash layers, and meltwater pools up close.

Skógar Museum
Located right off Route 1 before the Skógafoss turnoff. A great cultural stop to stretch and learn about Icelandic life.

Skógafoss
Just a 2-minute drive from the museum. This majestic waterfall is a perfect photo opportunity and quick hike.

Seljalandsfoss

A waterfall you can walk behind.

By evening, we returned to Hafnarfjörður—tired, happy, and full of memories.

✈️ Departure: July 3

Our return flight from KEF to Minneapolis (MSP) marked the end of this incredible journey. We had made the most of our time—twice—with Iceland’s wild beauty and cultural depth.